Stockholm was bracing for a big autumn storm this past Monday evening (it ended up being mostly a little rainy). That evening I was out with friends at the movies and we decided to drop in at a restaurant afterwards to escape the rain and have a spontaneous dinner out. I chose P.A. & Co as it is a very popular restaurant and it had been a long while since my last visit. Have to keep myself updated!
P.A. & Co has been around for about twenty years and has long been a favorite restaurant among the locals with a loyal group of regulars. It is small and cozy with not a lot of space between tables, often fully booked yet retaining a friendly and laid back ambience. The menu is varied and changes regularly... though with some mainstay dishes that keep the regulars happy. I would describe the menu as a mix of French and Swedish cuisines with some international touches. According to their website, the menu is made up of both classic and their own recipes, all favorites of the staff & owner, and I would say that this is accurate.
The three of us opted for chèvre chaud salad, ceviche with tuna & king crab and traditional Isterband (lightly smoked sausage) for our main courses. For dessert we ordered Gino. I would say that it is paramount to a crime not to order Gino when you visit the restaurant. Gino is made up of diced strawberries, kiwi and bananas, topped with grated white chocolate, baked in the oven, and served with vanilla ice cream. While you will find Gino on the menus of many Stockholm restaurants... it was created at P.A. & Co! Another stellar dish that is often found on their menu is the traditional Biff Rydberg. Delicious!
P.A. & Co is located on a quiet side street (Riddargatan) in the Östermalm district, close to the hustle and bustle of Stureplan. It is very easy to get to from the Rival Hotel. Either by subway- four stops to Östermalmstorg station on the red line- or a 7-8 minute taxi ride. Booking a table is, however, tricky! They do not accept table reservations made in advance. Instead, you have to book on the same day... telephone lines open at 3pm. On the weekend you have to have a bit of luck on your side as there are a lot of people calling at the same time for a table that evening. If you are staying at the Rival, contact me directly and I can help you with this! If we are unsuccessful, then I can happily recommend Bistro Süd as a dining option. Same owner with a similar concept, menu and ambiance as P.A. & Co, but located just a couple of blocks from the hotel!
Click here for other restaurant recommendations.
October 31, 2013
October 29, 2013
Höstlov and Halloween in Stockholm
This is a special week (October 28th to November 3rd) in Stockholm for several reasons: it is autumn break (höstlov) and children are out of school for the whole week, All Saints' Day is this coming Saturday (Nov 2nd) and, of course, Halloween... an import from the US which has grown in popularity over the past decade.
If you are visiting Stockholm this week with your children then you chose the right week. As it is the autumn break, and Swedish children have vacation, there are plenty of child friendly activities and events. Many of the museums in the city have special events or exhibitions geared especially for children this week, often with more "spooky" themes. For example, Historiska (the history museum) has special tours where children wear headlamps and get to search through certain exhibitions in the dark looking for skulls and treasure. One example of many. If you are staying at the Rival Hotel, and want more specific information of the different museum activities, talk directly with me!
Another fun place to visit with children this week is the park/square Kungsträdgården. From October 29th to November 1st they will have an activities tent set up (between 11am and 3:30pm) where children can try out different sports, arts & crafts, rock climbing and storytelling. Free admission. At Skansen park & museum they are having "magical days and spooky evenings" all week long with a more historic look at Swedish folklore relating to this season. Good for all ages... but keep in mind that some activities may be scarier than others (like certain ghost walks in the evenings). Another tip is that Drottningholm Palace, which is usually only open on the weekends during this time of year, is open all week long between 11am and 3:30pm. Unfortunately the boats aren't running... but you can take a combination of subway and bus to get there.
This Saturday, November 2nd, is the annual Halloween parade called, appropriately, Shock-holm. This has been going on for a few years and has gotten quite popular. The pre-party is at Medborgarplatsen between 3pm and 5pm, followed by the parade through Gamla Stan and ending at Kungsträdgården where the post party will go on until 7:30pm with live performances, food & drink and activities for all ages. You can either watch or walk in the parade, though the latter requires that you wear a costume/mask of some sort. Free admission!
Finally... for a more solemn and cultural activity, head to Skogskyrkogården ("The Woodland Cemetery") to celebrate All Hallow's Eve. This beautiful cemetery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was designed by famed Swedish architect Gunnar Asplund. This week is one of the most popular times of the year to visit as thousands of people come to remember loved ones and decorate the graves with candles and seasonal flowers making this special place even more hauntingly beautiful. More information. The main day to visit is Saturday (All Saints' Day), but the decorating does start in the week leading up to Saturday. Keep in mind to be respectful.
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Photo by Jeppe Wikström, Stockholm Visitors Board. |
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Grim Reaper at Skansen, Photo by Marie Andersson |
This Saturday, November 2nd, is the annual Halloween parade called, appropriately, Shock-holm. This has been going on for a few years and has gotten quite popular. The pre-party is at Medborgarplatsen between 3pm and 5pm, followed by the parade through Gamla Stan and ending at Kungsträdgården where the post party will go on until 7:30pm with live performances, food & drink and activities for all ages. You can either watch or walk in the parade, though the latter requires that you wear a costume/mask of some sort. Free admission!
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Skogskyrkogård (c) Susanne Hallmann, Cemeteries Administration of the City of Stockholm |
October 25, 2013
Tolv Stockholm- New Entertainment Centre
Exterior of Tele2 Arena. |
O'Leary's Sports Bar. |
Shark themed bowling lanes at O'Leary's. |
Bar at Enzo's. |
Gold Bar at Solidaritet Arena Nightclub. |
Solidaritet Nightclub... sans guests! |
October 23, 2013
Restaurant: Who is Mr French?
Gorgeous waterfront promenade... Mr French can be seen on the right. |
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Outdoor summer area with great views. (photo provided by Mr French) |
Cozy indoors... |
Gamla Stan waterfront with the official Christmas tree (last year). |
October 19, 2013
Cindy Sherman at Moderna
I recently attended the press showing for Moderna Museet's (modern art museum) new Cindy Sherman exhibition. Cindy Sherman is an American artist/photographer known mostly for her conceptual photographs and is considered one of the most important artists of the day. This is their big autumn exhibition and runs through January 19th, 2014.
The exhibition, "Untitled Horrors", is quite extensive and contains work spanning Sherman's career. I did find it interesting, especially her penchant to use herself as model/subject in many of her photographs without them ever being portraits. Sherman does a bit of role-playing in these photographs, disappearing into each role with the help of hair, make-up and set styling. Be aware that while the pictures are captivating and thought provoking, some of the pieces are a bit darker with some containing subjects of a sexual nature.
Moderna is located on the island of Skeppsholmen and is relatively simple to get to from the Rival Hotel... either by taking the Djurgårds Ferry (telling them that you wish to disembark at Skeppsholmen) or else there is a bridge connecting the island to the mainland at Blasieholmen. Moderna has a great gift shop and café, both of which I think are well worth a visit when at the museum! Closed on Mondays. Click here for other art exhibitions going on in Stockholm this autumn and early winter.
The exhibition, "Untitled Horrors", is quite extensive and contains work spanning Sherman's career. I did find it interesting, especially her penchant to use herself as model/subject in many of her photographs without them ever being portraits. Sherman does a bit of role-playing in these photographs, disappearing into each role with the help of hair, make-up and set styling. Be aware that while the pictures are captivating and thought provoking, some of the pieces are a bit darker with some containing subjects of a sexual nature.
Moderna is located on the island of Skeppsholmen and is relatively simple to get to from the Rival Hotel... either by taking the Djurgårds Ferry (telling them that you wish to disembark at Skeppsholmen) or else there is a bridge connecting the island to the mainland at Blasieholmen. Moderna has a great gift shop and café, both of which I think are well worth a visit when at the museum! Closed on Mondays. Click here for other art exhibitions going on in Stockholm this autumn and early winter.
Gift shop... books, prints and lots of fun knick-knacks! |
October 18, 2013
Exploring Stockholm's Architecture!
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Stockholm Public Library by Gunnar Asplund (photo by me!) |
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Woodland Cemetery (c) Susanne Hallmann, Kyrkogårdsförvaltningen Stockholms stad |
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Karolinska new lecture hall. Photo: Pol Martin/arcspace |
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Hammarbysjöstad Observatorium landscpe. Photo: Pol Martin/arcspace |
Some girder anchors on a building in Gamla Stan. |
October 15, 2013
Restaurant Pastis
It has been awhile since I have written about any restaurants. This isn't because I have been a recluse, more because the restaurants I have visited in the past few weeks have been repeats of favorite restaurants I have already written about... like celebrating my birthday at Boqueria and a work dinner at Bistro Süd. But this past weekend I have visited a couple of new (for me) restaurants!
First out was a dinner with a friend at Pastis in Gamla Stan ("the old town"). For those of you who don't know, pastis is a very French, anise-flavored liqueur with well known brands including Pernod and Ricard. As the name suggests, Pastis is French styled bistro reminiscent of the charming, neighbourhood restaurants found in most French villages. It is a small, cozy restaurant (I counted 20 seats indoors) with tables close to one another and French belle epoque prints decorating the walls.
The food and wine are, of course, French as well. My friend and I opted for the same dinner... a bruschetta with duck rillette as our appetizer followed by Moules Marinières (mussels cooked in white wine, cream and garlic) for our main course. For dessert we shared a selection of French cheese. All of it delicious! The menu, like the restaurant, isn't huge... but there are plenty of French favorites to be found, like Chèvre Chaud, Steak Tatare, Poulet la Comtesse and Crème Brulée. But of course!
A perfect restaurant for francophiles as well as those of you who wish for a taste of the Continent while visiting Scandinavia. Pastis is located in Gamla Stan, next to the statue of St George slaying the dragon, and is a mere 15 minute walk from the Rival Hotel on Södermalm. As I mentioned, this is a small restaurant so booking in advance is recommended! If you will be staying at the Rival, contact me for help. Otherwise send them an e-mail at info@pastis.se. Click here for other restaurant recommendations.
Pastis on the cobble-stone streets of Gamla Stan. |
The food and wine are, of course, French as well. My friend and I opted for the same dinner... a bruschetta with duck rillette as our appetizer followed by Moules Marinières (mussels cooked in white wine, cream and garlic) for our main course. For dessert we shared a selection of French cheese. All of it delicious! The menu, like the restaurant, isn't huge... but there are plenty of French favorites to be found, like Chèvre Chaud, Steak Tatare, Poulet la Comtesse and Crème Brulée. But of course!
Moules Marinières! Mmmm... |
Stortorget at night... a two minute walk from Pastis. |
October 10, 2013
Paolo Roversi at Fotografiska
If you have been reading this blog, then you probably know that I have a soft spot for photography exhibitions, especially the black & white, fashion variety... so it probably isn't strange that I should pay a visit to Fotografiska to see their latest exhibition Paolo Roversi: Secrets.
Italian born Roversi has been working as a fashion photographer for about 40 years and his work has made it into the pages of most high fashion magazines (both in editorial work and advertisement). His use of large format Polaroid print, natural light as well as his penchant for studio settings give his photographs an almost historical feel while still keeping a sense of intimacy.
From the exhibit, you do get a sense that Roversi views many of his models as personal muses... with many of them (Guinevere, Saskia, Natalia, etc;) appearing often throughout the exhibition. It evokes a feeling of collaboration between model and photographer.
Besides the Roversi exhibition (running until January 12th, 2014), there are several others going on simultaneously at Fotografiska. The Pieter Hugo exhibition, which I have already written about, is running until December 1st. A third, smaller exhibition features the Latvian photographer Inta Ruka (running until December 8th). Her stark photographs with characters from the Latvian countryside provide a wonderful contrast to the fashionable waifs of the Roversi exhibition. Add that to the slightly depressing, albeit thought provoking, subjects in the Hugo exhibit and you get an interesting afternoon at Fotografiska.
To get to the museum from the Rival Hotel... it is just a 15-20 minute walk. It is located on the Stadsgården waterfront and is a beautiful walk along the water from Slussen to Fotografiska. Interested in more art? Click here for other art exhibitions this season in Stockholm.
Italian born Roversi has been working as a fashion photographer for about 40 years and his work has made it into the pages of most high fashion magazines (both in editorial work and advertisement). His use of large format Polaroid print, natural light as well as his penchant for studio settings give his photographs an almost historical feel while still keeping a sense of intimacy.
Natalia Voldianova in all her glory. |
Besides the Roversi exhibition (running until January 12th, 2014), there are several others going on simultaneously at Fotografiska. The Pieter Hugo exhibition, which I have already written about, is running until December 1st. A third, smaller exhibition features the Latvian photographer Inta Ruka (running until December 8th). Her stark photographs with characters from the Latvian countryside provide a wonderful contrast to the fashionable waifs of the Roversi exhibition. Add that to the slightly depressing, albeit thought provoking, subjects in the Hugo exhibit and you get an interesting afternoon at Fotografiska.
To get to the museum from the Rival Hotel... it is just a 15-20 minute walk. It is located on the Stadsgården waterfront and is a beautiful walk along the water from Slussen to Fotografiska. Interested in more art? Click here for other art exhibitions this season in Stockholm.
A Latvian gentleman by Inta Ruka |
October 8, 2013
Currency, Cash and Credit Cards!
(EDIT: as of July 1st, 2017 Sweden has officially switched to new bank notes and coins. It has been a several year long process. Click here for more information) While many of my first blog posts (way back in 2010) have essential information for Stockholm visitors, they were written before I had really found my voice. Most of them are also in need of a serious update (information, look and links)! So I will be rewriting a few of my early posts... subjects with important information and tips for people visiting Stockholm.
Money, money, money... always an important part of any trip. To start of with, the currency in Sweden is called the Swedish krona (or crown). Sweden does not have the Euro! It is one of three EU countries that voted against replacing their currency with the Euro (the others two being the UK and Denmark). In retrospect it seems to have been a good idea to keep the krona! The vast majority of stores, restaurants and other businesses in Sweden do not accept any other currency than kronor (plural of krona). The few exceptions are some shops in areas frequented mainly by tourists, like Gamla Stan in Stockholm, where Euros may be accepted. However, this should never be taken for granted and keep in mind that the exchange rate may not be favourable! US dollars are really not accepted anywhere. As Sweden is part of the European Union, it is not strange to ask shopkeepers if they accept Euros, but please keep in mind that Sweden is a rich, First World nation with a strong economy and currency and insisting that a shopkeeper take dollars can be seen as being insulting. Trust me, this happens.
If switching between different currencies during your trip sounds like a bother, it is good to know that credit and debit cards are accepted practically everywhere in Sweden... from the high-end boutiques to the corner hot dog kiosks. Even taxis take plastic. In fact, most Swedes carry very little cash and use credit and debit cards for almost all transactions. Also, there are many places that have stopped accepting cash like ABBA the Museum, Rosendals Trädgård and Fotografiska museum. So, in other words, you don't need to exchange that much cash when visiting Sweden... though it is always good to have some cash on you for emergencies. Keep also in mind that Sweden, and most of Europe for that matter, uses the chip-and-pin system (EMV) with their credit/debit cards so don't be surprised when you are asked if you have a pin number when using your card. Don't worry if you don't have a chip-and-pin card... most places still accept cards with magnetic stripes!
There are many exchange offices in Stockholm that offer good rates. One reputable chain of exchange offices is Forex with shops spread throughout the city (including Gamla Stan, NK department store, the train station and airports). Cash withdrawal machines, or ATMs, are found throughout the city as well. It is hard to miss them... they are blue and called "Bankomat". Here you can withdraw Swedish kronor using your debit or credit card at a decent exchange rate. If you are staying at the Rival Hotel, contact me for the nearest exchange office and/or Bankomat.
Swedish kronor (crowns) |
A neighbourhood exchange office. |
A Swedish ATM... the Bankomat. |
October 5, 2013
Autumn Art Exhibitions in Stockholm
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At Millesgården: Anna Riwkin, Självporträtt, 1920-tal Foto: Erik Thor |
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At Moderna: Cindy Sherman Untitled #92© Courtesy of the artist and Metro Pictures, New York. |
- Fotografiska- world's largest photography museum. Several smaller exhibits but the main exhibition this season is "Paolo Roversi: Secrets" (until January 12th, 2014).
- Moderna- modern art museum. Several smaller exhibits but the main exhibition this season is "Cindy Sherman: Untitled Horrors" (October 19th to January 19th, 2014).
- Millesgården- sculpture garden and art museum. "Mettle and Modernity" (until February 9th, 2014). Looking forward, as well, to their upcoming Man Ray exhibit (Feb. 2014)!
- Liljevalchs- art and design museum. "Lena Cronqvist" (October 12th through January 5th, 2014).
- Prins Eugen's Waldermarsudde- "Skagen: A Scandinavian Artists' Colony" (until January 26th, 2014) and "Carl Malmsten: Designer & Educator" (October 19th through March 2nd, 2014).
- Thielska Galleriet- Ernst Thiel's art collection. The upper floor is closed for restorations and will reopen on October 26th. In the meantime, the museum is showing a smaller exhibit of art donated since 1978 (until October 25th).
- Bergsrummet (Världskultur Museerna)- Caverns of Skeppsholmen. "African Masterpieces" (until February 23rd, 2014).
- Architecture & Design Center- connected with Moderna. "Light Houses - Young Nordic Architecture" (Oct. 15th to Feb. 16th, 2014).
- Livrustkammaren- The Royal Armoury. "Images of (Queen) Christina" (until January 5th, 2014).
- Hallwylska- Palace and art & history museum. "Past, Present & Future" (until Novermber 17th).
- National Museum is closed for renovations. In the meantime they have temporary exhibits at the Royal Swedish Academy of Fine Arts (Konstakademien). "Carl Larsson: Friends & Enemies" (until November 3rd) and "Caravaggisti" (December 5th to March 30th, 2014) among others.
- Bonniers Konsthall- contemporary art. "Art of Memory" (until November 24th).
- Sven-Harry's- private art collection as well as museum and gallery. Illustrator "Björn Berg" (until November 10th).
African Masterpieces at Bergsrummet. |
There are several smaller art galleries and museums not listed above. If you are staying at the Rival Hotel, stop by or contact me in advance for further information and directions!
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At Sven Harry's! © Björn Berg / Bildmakarna Berg |
October 2, 2013
Tips for Booking a Restaurant in Stockholm!
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Photo by Yanan Li, visitstockholm.com |
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Fine dining at Jonas! |
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